Reader E-Mail: Getting Ready for an Event
I’ve got a game tomorrow, which should make for a fun post, so today I thought I’d answer an email:
I will be shooting (for fun and some friends) at the Veterans Wheelchair games. I got a Canon 40D (with grip) from my hubby for Christmas (going from a Kodak Hybrid).I have been practicing, (not good yet too much rain everywhere we go). Anyway I end up laying on the ground, squatting, and everything you can think of because they sit instead of stand. I have the following Lens (most bought on sale). I don’t have any “L” glass since I want to be sure before I spend that much money. I have the following:
- Canon 28-135 3.5-5.6
- Canon 70-300 4-5.6
- Canon 50 1.4
- Canon 85 1.8
- Sigma 10-20 4-5.6
- Tamron 17-50 2.8
- Canon 580EX II
- Flashpoint tripod and Quick Release ball head
Have not used the grip yet and practicing with the Lens. Which will be the best to take to the shoot: Want to know so I can practice more with them.
Thanks
First off, that’s a great kit for close to medium distance. The 17-50 is a nice lens, and the 50 and 85 could work indoors. A flash with the 28-135 and 70-300 could help get shots at a distance. But that’s if we’re indoors. Outdoors the kit gets better. So here’s what I’d use
Indoors, I’d stick with that 17-50 if I have enough light, or the 85 if I don’t have enough light. The 17-50 would come out for group shots before or after the event. If I’m too far away, I’d try the 70-300 at 1600 ISO with the 580 EX. Outdoors, I’d definitely go 17-50 or 28-135. The 10-20 might be nice to switch to for wide shots that showcase the event as a whole. If the light is really bright and I need some headshots or want to shoot tight, the 70-300 comes out. But I’d still prefer the 28-135.
So I would make sure to get used to that 17-50, the 85, and probably the 28-135. The 70-300 might come out, but honestly, that lens is very slow to focus, so unless I really needed it, I wouldn’t use it. No practice will really help that focus get faster. The flash comes along too. With this kit, you cover anything from group photos to action at a reasonable distance. You have some low light ability, and a flash for truly bad lighting.
Leave the tripod at home. You’ll probably want to be mobile, and tripods don’t let you get very low or move around into interesting angles. Even a monopod might be cumbersome if you’re shooting from a low angle. I’d choose the 85 over the 50 because it’s a nicer focal length, and its AF motor is better than that of the 50 1.4. The ultrawide 10-20 is a slow lens (aperturewise) and more of a specialty. If weight’s an issue, I leave that at home. The 28-135 isn’t fast, but it’s a great range, and certainly a better AF than the 70-300.
The flash can help overcome bad lighting. Practice shooting backlit and frontlit if you’re outdoors, and frontlit for indoors.The grip isn’t necessary, especially if weight is a concern, but I will guess you will be shooting verticals as well as horizontals, so I’d take it along if I could.
Finally, practice on the long end of that 28-135. It’s a 5.6 lens there, but also it’s a fairly long focal length. You’ll want to practice tracking things in motion to get used to action. With the 17-50 tracking shouldn’t be a problem. The 85 is a prime, so you’ll have to practice foot zoom, that is moving yourself, to get your shots framed right. You’ll get the feel for the right distance after enough experience.
I certainly hope this helps. If anyone else has anything to add to this, please feel free to comment.
Thanks so much. I tried to be careful as I picked my lens. I wanted a range. I shoot my family as a group, birthday parties, family events, and other events hence the 10-20.
I knew I needed a low light lens, so after research I picked the 17-50. I don’t have a lot of money LOL.
Coming from the film area, I had to have a 50 hence the 50 1.4
The 85 1.8 was added to complement the 50, but sometimes there is just so far I can back up.
70-300 that is the one for the longer focal length. When my rich uncle gets out of the poor house, I will get a better one.
28-135 was the Kit lens.
Although there is some overlap this allows me to pick and choose what I want to take.
Again thanks. I thought I had done a lousy job.
Alrighty, I haven’t (yet) read Max’s response, so here’s mine, and we’ll see how close I am to the Master’s…
I’m not sure if it’s indoors or out, but if I was limited to that glass list, I’d grab the 10-20, 17-50, 85, and 28-135, and the 580EXII just in case. The 10-20 is for those funky wide-angle “ambiance” shots that can help tell the story. The 17-50 would be good for group shots and semi-close candid portraits. The 28-135 would be for candid portraits from a distance; nothing moving too fast, the shots of the person getting ready for the opponent to come closer, etc. (I’m assuming the “Wheelchair Games” are sports-like).
That said, however, the lens that would probably live on the camera would be the 85/1.8. It’s way too nice of a lens. Open up for isolation, stop down to f/8 for depth, nice fast focus, and for stationary subjects, easier to get to 1/100th shutter by tweaking ISO.
While the 50/1.4 is a great lens, I think you’ve got it covered with the 17-50/2.8, although at a 2-stop loss.
Heck, I might do it just with the 10-20, 17-50, and 85, and leave the 28-135 at home (or in the car). If you can’t carry two lenses (since one is on-camera), ditch the 10-20 and go just 17-50 and 85.
John
TSomehow I got this on the wrong thread.
T he games are both inside and out. The Athletes participate in Basketball, Baseball, track and field. They do races manual chairs, and electric chairs, they throw the Javelin, Discus throw, swim, play table tennis, Quad Rubgy or Murder Ball, bowl, power soccer(played by athletes confined to power chairs), a street race, weight lifting, and I know I missed some events. They use power and manual chairs, and just have a heck of good time.
They are held in a different City each year so the lighting and venues change which means I don’t know what I will have until I get there.